2-9-2023 (JAKARTA) In the heart of Indonesia’s North Sulawesi province lies the Tomohon Extreme Market, a place that lives up to its name with a shocking display of exotic meats and unusual animal products. Fruit bats and field rats, charred to a crisp, line one stall’s ceramic-covered counter, while nearby, three-meter-long pythons are stripped of their skins, suspended on metal hooks.
However disturbing this may be, it’s still milder than the horrific scenes witnessed just two months ago. Vendors at the market were then openly selling dog and cat meat, filling the air with the acrid smell of freshly slaughtered animals being scorched by blowtorches. Blood stained the market’s corners, where dogs met brutal ends.
Cages held emaciated and terrified dogs and cats, some whimpering in fear of their impending slaughter. But everything changed on July 21, when Tomohon’s mayor, Caroll Senduk, issued an instruction banning the sale of dog and cat meat at the city-owned market.
Although the ban applies only to the market and not to other parts of the city, animal rights activists have praised the move as a significant step towards a nationwide change.
Lola Webber, from the non-profit organization Humane Society International (HSI), stated, “(The ban) has a huge symbolic value given that Tomohon market is notorious around the world for the trading and slaughtering of dogs and cats. If we can get such a ban at the Tomohon Extreme Market, it gives hope that others will take similar actions.”
Malicious Trade Persists
To date, only 22 out of 514 cities and regencies across Indonesia have implemented regulations against the sale of dog and cat meat. These include Semarang, Indonesia’s sixth-largest city, and Sukoharjo Regency, which was once notorious for its dog and cat meat trade.
Activists emphasize that convincing these 22 areas to combat the dog and cat meat trade has been a long, arduous struggle, even in cities where the consumption of such meat is low, like Jakarta, which only recently passed a directive banning its sale.
Activists estimate that over a million dogs and thousands of cats are slaughtered in Indonesia each year, with some communities believing that consuming dog or cat meat can cure various ailments, though these claims lack scientific evidence. The disparity in demand between dogs and cats is due to the popularity of cats as pets in Indonesia. Most of the dogs and cats consumed are mixed breeds, although there are instances of abandoned or stolen purebreds being slaughtered for food. Approximately 70 percent of dogs consumed in Indonesia come from North Sulawesi.
When the Tomohon ban was announced, activists rushed to rescue dogs and cats bound for slaughter at the market by vendors attempting to clear their stocks ahead of the deadline. Frank Manus from Animal Friends Manado Indonesia (AFMI), who participated in the rescue, described the animals’ deplorable conditions, highlighting malnutrition, dehydration, diseases, and infections due to mistreatment and confinement.
Vendors often source dogs from poachers in other Sulawesi provinces, while cats are typically local strays. The lack of oversight means that many of these animals may have died from diseases or old age by the time they reach Tomohon. Some customers prefer live animals to ensure their quality before slaughter, further complicating the trade.
Given that slaughtered dogs and cats are sold as charred carcasses, there have been instances of poachers and vendors attempting to pass off meat from diseased animals as healthy. Poachers indiscriminately capture puppies, sick animals, and aging ones. In a 2021 police raid at a dog meat slaughterhouse in Central Java’s Sukoharjo Regency, officials discovered that 10 out of 54 rescued dogs were pregnant. In Tomohon, rescued dogs even included a purebred Samoyed and a Pitbull, suggesting they were likely stolen pets.
Lack of Regulation Fuels the Trade
Dogs and cats are not considered food by Indonesia’s Ministry of Agriculture, nor are they listed as endangered species by the country’s Ministry for the Environment and Forestry. This legal gray area enables the dog and cat meat trade to persist. Unlike animals bred for consumption like cows, chickens, and pigs, which are subject to numerous regulations, standards, and health requirements governing their treatment, transportation, and slaughter, dogs and cats remain virtually unregulated in trade due to their non-food status.
Meanwhile, Indonesians can face lengthy jail terms and heavy fines for catching, let alone killing, an endangered species. Indonesia’s first prosecution for dog meat trading occurred in 2021 when a suspect, Suradi, accused of trafficking 78 dogs for slaughter, was charged with transporting dogs out of a rabies zone without a permit. Suradi, like many Indonesians, goes by one name and was sentenced to 10 months in prison and a fine of 150 million rupiah (US$9,838).
Earlier this year, Nasrullah, director-general of livestock and animal welfare at the Ministry of Agriculture, expressed caution about imposing a nationwide ban on the trade and consumption of dog and cat meat, citing its cultural significance in some areas. Instead, the ministry advocated for local governments to enact their own regulations and decrees to combat the trade, emphasizing the need to consider zoonotic disease transmission, legal aspects, and disease control.
Despite issuing a directive in 2018 urging regional governments to halt permits and certificates for dog meat products and slaughterhouses, progress has been slow. Only 22 regencies and cities have complied with the directive five years later.
Uphill Battle for Activists
Frank Manus of AFMI recounted the ten-year struggle it took for activists to convince the Tomohon government to halt animal cruelty at the Extreme Market. This was a daunting task as the market was a significant tourist attraction for the city. Initially, the city government agreed only to ban the trade of protected wildlife, such as the critically endangered Celebes crested macaque and the vulnerable Sulawesi bear cuscus. However, Manus and other activists persevered.
Between January and May of this year, Tomohon faced a rabies outbreak, with over 200 cases reported. This made Tomohon one of the worst cities for rabies infection in Indonesia. Mayor Senduk cited the impact of animal cruelty on tourism and encouraged residents to seek hygienic, rabies-free food sources.
Going Underground
Roy Nangka, a vendor at the Tomohon Extreme Market, noted that the market has become quieter since the ban was introduced. He lamented that he has seen a decrease of up to 30 percent in his income. Many regular customers now travel outside the city to source dog and cat meat, as they prefer one-stop markets.
The situation in Tomohon contrasts sharply with that in Langoan, a small town an hour’s drive away, where dog and cat meat is still openly traded at the local market. Vendors in Langoan have reported an influx of customers from Tomohon.
There are also reports of vendors at the Tomohon Extreme Market attempting to sell dog and cat meat secretly, highlighting the importance of enforcement in curbing the trade.
Dying Trend?
But there may be hope yet that a better future for dogs and cats in Indonesia, according to activists. At a Minahasa restaurant in Tomohon, dog meat is the least popular choice, with many customers opting for traditional dishes made from pork and fish. The restaurant owner, Enjelina, who refused to disclose her full name, mentioned that dog and cat meat are considered food for the older generation, while the younger generation prefers to avoid them.
Tomohon’s animal welfare division chief, Mr. Karundeng, echoed this sentiment, highlighting the increasing number of animal lovers in North Sulawesi. Activities such as dog shows, pet shops, and grooming salons have emerged, indicating changing attitudes toward dogs and cats. City officials plan to raise awareness in schools to educate youth that dogs and cats are not suitable as food.
This gradual shift in attitude is seen as a positive step toward achieving a dog and cat meat-free Indonesia. Lola Webber from HSI stated, “Slowly we are inching towards our goal of a dog and cat meat-free Indonesia.”
